On the birthday of the icon of style, we recall her iconic images in the cinema
|Today, Audrey Hepburn, 89, would be an actress who could easily combine European chic and American sportiness, charming, elegant and endlessly bold – in the era of lush hairstyles, tight skirts, tight sweaters, in the era of Jane Russell and the corsages invented for her by Howard Hughes, Audrey Hepburn decided to go her own way and gave women a boyish haircut, fashioned ballet flats, high-necked sweaters, capri pants, waist-length belts and shirts tied at the waist to the bow. Cecil Biton wrote about her in Vogue: “Before World War II, no one was like her … now there were thousands of imitators.” And the day of her birth, we remember not only your favorite icon, but also her faithful companion in fashion – Huber Zhevanshi.|
Hubert Zivanshi at work
| In the summer of 1953 Audrey Hepburn was confirmed for her second major role – in the film “Sabrina” with William Holden and Humphrey Bogart. The director of the picture Billy Wilder sent a girl to Paris for clothes created by the French fashion designer, because according to the plot her heroine returns to America after spending a year in France. Then the glory of Cristobal Balenciaga was thundering, and at first Audrey wanted to order costumes for the film from him. But the great couturier was already great and did not find time on Audrey. And then she remembered the favorite of Balenciaga – the high aristocrat Hubert Zivanshi, who, by the way, agreed to a meeting only because he thought that it was a Hollywood star Katharine Hepburn.
At that time Zyvanshi was considered a relatively young fashion designer – he opened his French House only a year and a half ago. Nevertheless, Audrey was his big fan – she followed the work of Hubert ever since he was a pupil in the House of Elsa Schiaparelli.
Hubert Zivanshi and Audrey Hepburn on fitting
| When they met, Hubert Zivanshi was 26, and Hepburn – 24, and they were like a brother and sister, are similar in their habits. Huber went up at seven in the morning and worked 14 hours a day: sketching, studying fabrics, choosing fittings, all on schedule. Audrey was no less organized, besides, she was very fond of clothes and, as it turned out later, she shared with Hubert his other passion – gardening.
On the day of their first meeting the designer refused to create suits for “Sabrina”, as he was too busy with his winter collection, and then Audrey persuaded him to allow her to choose something from the ready. So, in “Sabrina” appeared wool suit Oxford gray, white evening dress strapless, with a detachable organza train and a black dress of dense cotton – for a date with Linus Larrabi. And very soon the cutout, which perfectly suited her collarbones, which was too embarrassing for them, considering too bony, characteristic of the suits of Hubert Zhevanshi, was called “Sabrina’s neckline”.
Images from the film “Sabrina”, dir. Billy Wilder, 1954
A shot from the film “Sabrina”, dir. Billy Wilder, 1954
|Thus began their touching friendship. Hubert Zivanshi worked on all the stage costumes of Audrey – his name did not always appear in the credits, but the invariable author of her outfits was always the French fashion designer. Often he mailed his sketches to America, which later was sewed by the famous Edith Head – a Hollywood costume designer who dressed all the stars and social ladies of the time. It was her name that flaunted on the screen, and all because Hubert was not a member of the union of artists in costumes. And yet his famous black dress from “Breakfast at Tiffany’s” became the most expensive dress from the movie and was sold at auction for £ 467,200. Huber Givenchy dressed Audrey in the films “Funny Face”, “Love in the Afternoon”, “Breakfast at Tiffany’s”, “Sharada”, “Paris, when it’s hot” and “How to steal a million.”|
|Hubert dressed Audrey not only in the movies, but in life, and, of course, at the most important moments for him, he was near – dresses for the second wedding and the christening of her boys, as well as the baptismal dresses, sewed Zyvanshi. She became his muse. They were united by their love of clean lines and simple colors: “Only in his clothes I become myself,” Audrey told reporters in 1956. “He’s not just a couturier, he’s a creator of personality.”|
Wedding Audrey Hepburn and Andrea Dotti, 1969